The latest collection from the enigmatic Maison Martin Margiela succeeds in fluctuating between traditional tailoring techniques and avant-garde, conceptual design. Silhouettes are key as classic women’s garments are re-imagined and in ‘typical’ Margiela stye, deconstructed.
The anti-brand continues to defy usual fashion scripture with the absence of one creative director. Instead, it is run by a lab-coat clad collective that, despite the lack of his presence, pursue the creative ideologies of Martin Margiela. The man himself was just as elusive before he slipped quietly out of the door in 2009; never appearing at the end of shows or giving interviews.
So perhaps it is not unfair to let the clothes do the talking. For next season Margiela gives us alternating silhouettes; day wear is strict and pure from the front, but seductive and feminine from behind. A-line evening dresses are wide and voluminous with oversized pockets that abstract the figure.
External pockets provide a nod towards the concept of deconstruction that was so central to Margiela himself. Tailoring is played with elsewhere as fabrics traditionally used only internally appear as garments in their own rights; jackets and waistcoats are made from horse hair fabric and the suit is recreated using transparent crinoline.
Coloured body-suits seen underneath chiffon gowns endow a certain sexiness to the collection. Skin is on show in strapless jumpsuits that are effortlessly chic and actually very wearable. In fact, many of these pieces are; the leg-lengthening trousers and precision cut jackets would be welcome additions in any wardrobe.
The palette is muted and sophisticated, think greys and soft-blues in varying shades, cream, burgundy and moss green, which lends well to the collections overall feel; that of minimalist, conceptual elegance.
By Mercedes Hutton